Antelope Canyon is a slot canyon on the Navajo Nation, cut into sandstone just east of Page. It belongs to the LeChee Chapter and lies inside Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park, which is why there is no ticket booth for walk-ups and why every visitor goes in with a licensed Navajo guide. The guides grew up around these washes, and many of the outfitters are family businesses run by the same families for decades.
01Sand turned to stone
The walls are Navajo Sandstone, the remains of a desert of dunes that hardened into rock. You can still see the fine lines of the old dunes in the walls, the stripes that turn violet, orange and gold as the light moves.
02Carved by floods
Over a very long time, water from summer storms raced down the washes, found cracks and scoured them into the smooth, curving corridors you walk today. Wind finished the polish. The floods still come, often from storms many miles away, which is why the outfitters watch the sky before every tour. The monsoon months.
03The day the rules changed
In August 1997 a flash flood swept through Lower Antelope Canyon and killed eleven hikers. Since then the canyons have been open only with Navajo guides, Lower has fixed ladders and stairs, and the outfitters close the slots when storms threaten. When a closure spoils your plans, this is the reason.
The moment most visitors remember is not the beam. It is the hush when a group of strangers looks up at the same ribbon of sky.
04Two canyons, two names
Upper and Lower are separate canyons a few miles apart on either side of Highway 98, each with its own Navajo name and its own outfitters. Upper opens at ground level and widens at the floor; Lower is a crack you climb down into. Guides will tell you the names and what they mean. Upper or Lower Antelope Canyon?
05A town built for a dam
Page began in 1957 as a camp for the workers building Glen Canyon Dam. The dam was finished in 1966 and its reservoir, Lake Powell, flooded the lower end of Antelope Canyon. That water side can be paddled. Antelope Canyon by kayak or boat.
06Respect at the gate
Stay with your guide, keep your hands off the walls where asked, and leave drones at home. The rules about bags and tripods exist to keep tight passages moving and the rock unscratched, and the guides enforce them politely but firmly. Photo rules and camera tips.
5 milesFrom Page to the canyon gates
1997The flood that made guides required
1 hourA typical walk in either canyon
No DSTArizona time, unlike the Navajo Nation